Month: July 2019

Day 4: July 11

1.

By the monorail, it took about 10 minutes to go from the Miebashi Station to the Shuri Station (首里駅), and then one walked for another 10 minute to the Shuri Castle (首里城). It was free to enter the park of World Heritage, including going into part of the castle. The route of visit was well planned, and one followed the arrow on the pervasive signs to go into Kankaimon-gate (歓会門) first. The stone walls that surrounded the castle, and the stairsteps too, were built of hexagon stone bricks, which were polished very evenly and were tightly in contact with each other. I wondered how they cut the stone bricks so precisely. The stone, except for the fern and grass in the fissure, did not appear to be so old, but definitely appeared genuine and not restored.

2.

There was a gate, inside which one had to pay to visit. I was given a plastic bag (which appeared strange to me at first), and was asked to take off my shoes. Along the planned route of visit, one can see artifacts, for example a big bell’s mold, peony-carved bricks, dragon-shaped pillow remnant, the Ryukyu kings’ crown and seal, and a series of portraits of kings, all of them in the Mandarin costume. From what’s left here, the Ryukyu kings probably wrote calligraphy as skillfully as the Qing emperors. And there were the tatami-mats where the king must have sat, and looked down his people proudly. To call servants in another room, they pulled a bell, which seemed intriguing to us. These were all very interesting, but I found the stone-wall-building artistry to be most impressive above all.

3.

At the highest point there was an observation. One saw the China sea, the Tomari port I had been, the buildings that Naha city was, and the red roof-tiles of the palace that I was just moments ago. I left the castle, and found a wood pavilion at the center of the lake, which would have been a nice resting place if it had not been so hot. A sign explained that, in WWII, intense battles took place here, and American seized Okinawa, causing most ruin destroyed. While the Ryukyu Kingdom had once dominated the island, and in its prime vowed to serve as the port of “thousands of countries”, all that now left was a broken castle.

4.

The sentiment was all very noble, but I was hungry again. Close to the castle a restaurant called Suimui-kan (首里杜館) seemed to be the only decent place to eat. I ordered a soba-noodle, similar to what I had had in the America Village. The stewed pork often contained cartilage and fat, which I didn’t like. By the way, on the way back I helped a Thai woman — who lost her way back, could not speak English, and could not access Wifi — go to a police station. Though it would be quite a while before the flight was to took off, I chose to get to the Naha airport earlier to pick some Aloha shirts hard to see in Taiwan (or are they?).

Day 3: July 10

1.

It was said that there is a Fish Market near the Tomari (泊) port. It was a 10-minute walk from the hotel. On the road thereto, for the first time I realized I have been dwelling near the sea. In the market there were insanely cheap pieces of fish, or packs of bloody-clam or sea urchins, covered in plastic wrap and displayed down the corridor. However there were not many restaurant nearby. I walked into one I discovered, whose name I do not remember now, and ordered plate of about ten assorted sushi’s, which cost only a modest 1350 yen. It was certainly fresher than what I had had in conveyor-belt sushi shops in Taipei in the before, but seemingly neither was it magically different. Outside, ferry boats and fishing boats were strung in a row, on which severely tanned fishermen were, and far away huge cruise-boat could be seen.

2.

On the Google map, along the seashore it seemed possible to walk to Naminoue-Shrine (波上宮), but it was getting intolerably hot. A ice-cream-vending machine read: Beware of heat strokes. Next to the Shrine there was a small beach, where I thought I would be excited to take a sunbath, but this idea now sounded like a self-imposed torture. Up I climbed the hill, where emerged the Torii-gate (鳥居) of Naminoue Shrine’s. I did not intend for the paid prayer services, as I was not pious, but I did pressing my hands and close my eyes out of respect. The string of paper pieces hung from the ceiling waved with the hot wind, below there was the donation chest. I donated all my coins less than 100-yen into the slits of chest. By the shrine proper, out of Chinese-dragon-shaped stone statue’s mouth, flowed water for purification use; I followed the instruction to wash my hands and rinse my mouth. The heat started to made me uncomfortable and I took a taxi to Asabashi (旭橋) Station, where bus terminal was.

3.

Yesterday I was considering something like going to Gyoku-Sendo, but having asked the staff I now found it too far away, and thus decided to visit the American village. The bus no. 28 will do. One walked towards the ferris wheel, and beside it the imitation-wood houses were conspicuous. There rap songs were played, and vintage posters could be seen everywhere. I had a chili hot dog which is not spicy at all. I thought it was an okay place, but the atmosphere was more Disney-like than genuinely American, as when I now walked around the genuine Japanese street, it was not the case that every single thing shouted that it was of Japanese origin. Anyway, now, it was only 2pm and I had no idea what to do.

4.

But I found, on Google map, a bike shop “Sunset Bicycle” that regularly closed in 6pm, and I came up the idea (upon discussing with the shop owner) that, following the road 58, one might get to Cape Maeda (真栄田岬) or cape Zanpa (残波岬), and came back, constituting an almost 30km round trip, which seemed not impossible. For about half an hour, by a parking area near Kadena (嘉手納), as read the sign, there was a piece of beach. I could not stop sweating, and drank nearly three bottles of sparkling water — I bought one as soon as I saw a vending machine. From Kadena, the pavement began to be bumped and narrow, and though I managed to go inside residential district to find easier roads, it could be dangerous riding along with cars, and I always forgot keeping to the left. It was 3 and half, and I found it likely that I could not made it before 6pm, and it would be extremely cumbersome if I would not be able to return the bike, thus I decided going back. Along the seashore, fragmented pieces of beach, with no one near, were all over the place. After going back, I roamed on the sands on the beach by the American Village for a while before returning the bike. I ordered a mediocre Ramen in the mall, and, thinking today’s plan was not tightly packed enough, had another bowl of green-tea flavored shredded-ice (かき氷). I could only hope to get up really early to visit the Shuri castle tomorrow, to make most of it before I leave.

Day 2: July 9

1.

As yesterday I asked a staff of the monorail station, one went to the Naha Bus Terminal, at Asahibashi (旭橋), to get on the bus “117” to the Aquarium. It was a good 2-hour drive to the Aquarium; I did not know it was that far. Though having slept little, I could not fall asleep on the bumpy highway. By about Nago City, the bus came out of weeds and tombs, and followed the seashore. I had plenty time watching in solitude the sea, which extended to the unfathomable skyline in loneliness, and brooding about what misery the mankind was in, and completing the boring writing that this essay was. One got off on the “Memorial park” (記念公園前), which was exactly the entrance of the Ocean Expo Park, where the Aquarium was. It was moderately hot, but very humid in the air. Following the brochures, one walked for some 5 minutes to the right to get into the churaumi-suizokukan (美ら海水族館), or the “Beautiful Aquarium”. There was a Shark Statue in front of the door, which I would soon realize what it stand for.

2.

With the 1850 yen ticket, one got into the building crowded with people, many of whom were speaking Mandarin, and were downright excited kids. In the first room one may touch the sea stars and sea urchins, if done gently. And there was a big fish tank made with magnifying glass-wall, so that a variety of fish could be closely examined.
A swirling school of clownfish (people exclaiming “Nemo”, in reference of Finding Nemo), a really huge and scary grey sweetlips, a trumpetfish like a stick, and sea turtles that whipped its limbs to surface upwards — and a myriad of creatures I could not name. What, to you, now read like meaningless encyclopedia entries had, at that moment, turned into vivid bone and flesh in front of me. And how alienated have we been from the real nature that has always encircled us? We are not far from thinking the fish photo on the menu is a close likeness, especially those in a sushi shop.

3.

When I thought that that was it, I was wrong; what was the next room was nothing less than what I had seen. There emerged a larger fish tank. A ray with funnily protruding eyes swam, pressing the glass so it looked even closer to me. And a still larger, indeed incredibly large, fish, as wide as several adult’s height, swam casually across the curved glass wall, near the surface of water. Everyone exclaimed in earnest awe, in respective language. It was a whale shark. Now I just laughed at myself for just having considered those sea basses to be large. Furthermore, a dented canopy enabled people to directly look, under it, the whale sharks from below, and to examine its fins and abdomen closely, which could be frightening. And at 1 and half, a diver went into the tank to shot, in real-time, video of the sea creatures, and the scene was showed on a screen.

4.

Not in their genuine home, they must have required great care by the staff. We were still not sure what they eat, the written notes said. The staff even had the female whale sharks taken the ultrasound scan — with help by Taiwanese researchers — when it was about to give birth to baby sharks. Nevertheless, they must find the tank (or perhaps the bowl?) to be, unfortunately, depressingly small, barely possible to let them turn around as recklessly as in the ocean, though the tank has been recognized officially as one of the largest in the world. What must the whale sharks have been going in the sea? They were to plunge merrily, I guessed, once they felt like it, towards the deep of sea, into pure blackness, which the mankind perceived to be void, and again to rise onto the surface of water in no time.

5.

Beside the main fish tank, there were miscellaneous tanks that showed deep sea creatures. That was made possible by specially designed device that exert extra pressure, as explained on a plaque. The lobsters were big as an adult’s chest. The jellyfish, glowing under the ultraviolet light, must be eating something eerily by wielding many of its tentacles. And the flashlightfish, in the darkness, could only be recognized by with its fluorescent stripe. In the souvenir store I bought a shirt which the iconic whale shark was painted on, in the hope that the trifle amount of money would help the whale shark keep living at its ease.

6.

Thinking it was possible to go into the aquarium again, I felt like that was enough, and followed my whim to go to the plant gardens as promised on the brochure. Beside the Aquarium building, there were several pools for manatees, and several for sea turtles. A dolphin show, the moment I passed by, had just ended. Southwards there were more butterflies and bees, and tropical plants with prickling leaves, and crows’ caw could be heard. I was a little disappointed as there seemed to be no plant garden arranged with the same quality as the Aquarium was, or perhaps they were a reasonable distance away. But the bus schedule was awkward: The last one was to arrive here at 17:15, and it was now about 3 and half. Fearing that the bus time might be unpredictable, I decided, by almost at 4 o’clock, that I go back to wait for the returning bus. When I did, it soon came and I got on, calling it a day.

7.

By now I had had nothing impressive, except an Onigiri bought in the morning by the Naha terminal station, and a shabby Soba-noodle in a stand by the Aquarium, so I was really hungry. After going back to the hotel and rested for a moment, I found it was already 8 o’clock, and what was still opening might only be Izakaya-bars. Speaking of those, it was curious that the area, reading Maejima (前島) on the map, seemed right at the center of the aggregation of Izakaya-bars: there were more than a dozen within walking distance. I crossed a street to go into the nearest one, “海のちんぼらぁ”, judging from the fact that it was marked 4-star on Google Maps. The staff welcomed me to a low wooden seat, near the bar adorned with seashells; there, through the glass window of the open-kitchen, fish slices could be seen, on which diligently-working cooks worked in front of me. I ordered a dish of rice fried with fish shreds and served with sea urchin. Orion Beer could be refilled free, as seemed to be the norm. I felt a tad estranged by typing on my laptop alone here, for, as I could tell from the surrounding, the very place served usually for gatherings of business people and friends alike. I ordered another soy-sauce-stewed fish, and it tasted certainly like one of the best stewed fish I ever had had. The fish was cooked just to the right point, contrasted in taste by the bitter but smooth-flavored Orion beer. I would sign in my Google account to rate a five-star for the inconspicuous bar — I told the cook. But the fish alone cost some 1400 yen, and this number ought to be forgotten.

(Note: This blog was created on July 25, 2019, and this was the first post.)

Day 1: July 8

1.

The first time I travel in some 4 years, and in fact the first time I travel alone, I was going to Okinawa for a short 4-day (3-night) vacation. Today I was impressed by the MRT Airport Line when getting to the airport, and by the electronic, simplified boarding procedure. The Eva Air flight was smooth, and took a little more than 1 hour from Taoyuan to Naha. Upon landing it was incredibly straightforward, given the Kanji obvious in meaning, to figure out how to transfer, by means of local monorail, to the Miebashi Station (美栄橋駅) near where I was to dwell for the next 3 nights. Along the neatly arranged blocks and traffic lights, markedly different from those in Taiwan, I was able to get to the hotel with little effort, by following Google Maps—thanks to the very affordable roaming plan of local mobile company Docomo, about 300 NTD each day in price. The Smile Hotel Okinawa where I stayed, marked 3 stars on Google, was tidy and equipped with most necessities, while only costing about 2-thousand NTD per night.

From my hotel I returned to Miebashi Station to meet a friend of mine, Fang-Yi; it was a 20-minute walk. The street was full of Izakaya-bars and Yakiniku-grill restaurants, and of chained retail stores (the most pervasive is “Lawson”) still open late, including the familiar Family-Mart. By 9 o’clock—it was nominally 1 hour later than Taipei here—I saw Fang-Yi by the Station. She came to Okinawa too, together with another friend of ours, Pei-Lin. Though technically staying in Okinawa in the same interval of time, except this evening we were not to meet, for reason totally unnecessary (and uninteresting, I must add) to elaborate. Pei-Lin was in a non-ideal position to have to work to meet the deadline while on a long-planned vacation, whom let us earnestly bless and pass over in silence. Instead let us notice, in front of us, the first place of interest I was to encounter today (but not my friend, who had been a seasoned traveler of Japan)—The International Street (国際通り). From the direction of radiant lights from shop signs, here lay a variety of shops and restaurants.

3.

The very first eye catching thing was the glassware, a feature in Okinawa. I purchased a spiral-curved glass cup of deep blue that looked attractive. That was probably because the cup resembled, and was named after, the Blue Cave (青の洞窟), where I was not about going to, since it was too cumbersome, I guess, to swim or snorkel alone, and tiresome too—the very vacation, to me, was meant to relax. I also bought a case of Sablé cookie, made with the featured salt of Chitan (北谷), to treat fellow Lab students, in support of the excuse for the fact that I was absent. Besides food, cosmetic shops were also said to be a must visit, for your information. There were dubiously-looking masks purported to be made in volcano dust, and shampoo containing honey. And Merlion-like lion figures explained on the note in problematic English. What I did not bought: the curious looking Caulerpa lentillifera (海ぶどう), crunchy and rather salty in taste. What I did bought: cheap packs dried seaweed, the chilies dipped in wine (though it turns out I would not be able to pass that in custom), and cured fish. Food made up the most practical gifts.

4.

Fang-Yi and I walked westward along the street, and encountered a Ramen shop called “康竜”. I ordered a (I guess) soy-sauce flavored Ramen simply called “Ramen”, served with rice with raw yolk. It was (as was expected) salty, but good. We commented on the nature of Japanese language, as well as other language learning experience—though I was ashamed to admit that I had almost forgotten anything German I had learnt several years ago, and my understanding of Japanese was restricted on Duolingo’s Level-One lessons taken several days ago. I shared a recent enlightenment of personal nature, that, in every language, a sentence is such an entity organized of, let us say, “content words” and “function words”, where function words add redundancy—drawing analogy from study of error correction codes—so that the relationship between content words can be made clear and resist from misreading and mishearing. And Japanese is particularly unusual in this regard, as it adopts two writing systems, Kana and Kanji. Kana’s exhibit inflection (in the wider sense), wile Kanji’s do not (and could not). We talked a lot, and were in good mood. Having gone back to the monorail station I parted my friend, and wished them two well. Since I planned to catch an early bus to yonder Churaumi Aquarium in the north of the tropical island, but had already spent an hour and half writing (only to find my English rusty), I had better sleep now.