Day 3: July 10
1.
It was said that there is a Fish Market near the Tomari (泊) port. It was a 10-minute walk from the hotel. On the road thereto, for the first time I realized I have been dwelling near the sea. In the market there were insanely cheap pieces of fish, or packs of bloody-clam or sea urchins, covered in plastic wrap and displayed down the corridor. However there were not many restaurant nearby. I walked into one I discovered, whose name I do not remember now, and ordered plate of about ten assorted sushi’s, which cost only a modest 1350 yen. It was certainly fresher than what I had had in conveyor-belt sushi shops in Taipei in the before, but seemingly neither was it magically different. Outside, ferry boats and fishing boats were strung in a row, on which severely tanned fishermen were, and far away huge cruise-boat could be seen.
2.
On the Google map, along the seashore it seemed possible to walk to Naminoue-Shrine (波上宮), but it was getting intolerably hot. A ice-cream-vending machine read: Beware of heat strokes. Next to the Shrine there was a small beach, where I thought I would be excited to take a sunbath, but this idea now sounded like a self-imposed torture. Up I climbed the hill, where emerged the Torii-gate (鳥居) of Naminoue Shrine’s. I did not intend for the paid prayer services, as I was not pious, but I did pressing my hands and close my eyes out of respect. The string of paper pieces hung from the ceiling waved with the hot wind, below there was the donation chest. I donated all my coins less than 100-yen into the slits of chest. By the shrine proper, out of Chinese-dragon-shaped stone statue’s mouth, flowed water for purification use; I followed the instruction to wash my hands and rinse my mouth. The heat started to made me uncomfortable and I took a taxi to Asabashi (旭橋) Station, where bus terminal was.
3.
Yesterday I was considering something like going to Gyoku-Sendo, but having asked the staff I now found it too far away, and thus decided to visit the American village. The bus no. 28 will do. One walked towards the ferris wheel, and beside it the imitation-wood houses were conspicuous. There rap songs were played, and vintage posters could be seen everywhere. I had a chili hot dog which is not spicy at all. I thought it was an okay place, but the atmosphere was more Disney-like than genuinely American, as when I now walked around the genuine Japanese street, it was not the case that every single thing shouted that it was of Japanese origin. Anyway, now, it was only 2pm and I had no idea what to do.
4.
But I found, on Google map, a bike shop “Sunset Bicycle” that regularly closed in 6pm, and I came up the idea (upon discussing with the shop owner) that, following the road 58, one might get to Cape Maeda (真栄田岬) or cape Zanpa (残波岬), and came back, constituting an almost 30km round trip, which seemed not impossible. For about half an hour, by a parking area near Kadena (嘉手納), as read the sign, there was a piece of beach. I could not stop sweating, and drank nearly three bottles of sparkling water — I bought one as soon as I saw a vending machine. From Kadena, the pavement began to be bumped and narrow, and though I managed to go inside residential district to find easier roads, it could be dangerous riding along with cars, and I always forgot keeping to the left. It was 3 and half, and I found it likely that I could not made it before 6pm, and it would be extremely cumbersome if I would not be able to return the bike, thus I decided going back. Along the seashore, fragmented pieces of beach, with no one near, were all over the place. After going back, I roamed on the sands on the beach by the American Village for a while before returning the bike. I ordered a mediocre Ramen in the mall, and, thinking today’s plan was not tightly packed enough, had another bowl of green-tea flavored shredded-ice (かき氷). I could only hope to get up really early to visit the Shuri castle tomorrow, to make most of it before I leave.
Sketchbook 